Face Contouring 101
- Monday, 13 February 2012
What is facial contouring?
We can slim down the appearances of our faces thanks to the help of smart facial shaping techniques achieved through makeup. Today, we'll be sharing some quick simple methods to sculpting the face.
Define your face shape
First, you need to identify your face shape. A tip to define your face shape is to stand in front of a mirror, use a pencil eyeliner and outline the reflection of your face. Make sure all of your hair is pulled back beforehand for a more precise drawing. After, step back and observe the shape you have drawn. Now look at the chart below. Which one are you?
I have a round face. Growing up, I've always disliked my face shape. It's now that I'm older that I'm able to appreciate the roundness of my face. I don't have high sculpted cheekbones but my round face it gives me a youthful look =)
What you'll need:
Highlighter: They contain luminescent particles to give the skin a beautiful sheen. Because they refract light, it draws attention into the face so they are applied on areas of the face that we want to emphasize. They come in many undertones such as gold, pink, peach and neutral. They come in different forms too (such as powder, cream or gel) but the easiest to work with would probably be powder.
Make sure the contouring powder is matte (non shimmer) and that it's a few shades darker than your skin tone. Contour powder works by shading areas to create shadow to de-emphasize certain areas of the face.
Again, they come in many forms such as powder, cream and gel. They are usually applied on the cheeks to give the face a pretty flush of colour. Where you apply your blush can also influence the appearance of the face shape.
To look as natural as possible. Avoid obvious colour indifferences and streaks. Work lightly and build up gradually to avoid the face looking muddy. Blending is very important. Take your time. The key shape to achieve is 'Oval'.
Contouring Techniques for your face shape
Contour: You're trying to minimize the roundness of the face so the key is to concentrate the contouring on the hollows of the cheeks. This creates shadow and also helps to make the cheekbones pop. Blend the contour into the jawline and don't forget to sculpt the sides of the forehead too.
Highlight: To make the cheekbones stand out, apply on the cheekbone and let it work upwards towards the temples. This gives a create slimming effect. It also gives the face more dimension and less flat.
Blush: Sweep along the cheekbones. Work the blush upwards for a lifting/slimming effect.
Contour: The key is to shorten the face so it looks less narrow. Sculpt along the hairline to "shorten" the face. I wouldn't do too much contouring on the sides of the face. You can even sculpt the chin and jaw areas to minimize the length of the face and for a facial widening effect.
Highlight: Concentrate the highlight on the centre of the face. This makes the face look rounder and more plump.
Blush: This should be applied on the apples of the cheeks. Don't blend upwards. Instead, scoop the brush in a U shape to emphasize the roundness of the cheeks.
Contour: By contouring the jawline, it will soften up the harsh corners of the face. Blend the contour upwards for a lifting effect. Sculpt the corners of the forehead as well to create a diamond shape. This creates a more oval shape for the face.
Highlight: Apply on the cheekbones to accentuate the cheek structure for core attention.
Blush: Apply on the apples of the cheeks to de-emphasize the hard edges.
Heart Shaped Face
Contour: The key is to balance out the width of the forehead so sculpt the sides of your forehead. If the midd section of the face is wider, you can sculpt the hollows of the cheekbones too.
Highlight: Apply on the cheekbones and work it upwards slightly to narrow down the sides of the face.
Blush: Apply on the apples of the cheeks and blend upwards.
A more sophisticated way to contour the face
So the above methods are great for everyday simple contouring. However, to take the contouring to the next level (for photoshoots etc), you can opt to work with fluids instead of powder. Use a foundation that's a few shades darker for your contour. This contours the face in a much more natural way. For highlight, you can just use a concealer. An illuminating concealer works best.
Check out the picture below:
Undereyes: Highlight is used to brighten up the under eye area. It will lift areas that appear "sunken".
Nose: The darker shade is used to create shadow on the sides of the nose. The highlight shade is applied on the nose bridge to add height thus working together to slim down the nose.
Mouth: Applying highlight around the corners of mouth lifts the mouth area.
Smile lines: Applying highlight on the smile lines fades the shadows.
Cheekbones: The darker shade is applied on the hollows of the cheeks to slim down the face & emphasize the cheekbones.
Eyes: Use the lighter shade on the brow bone to lift the area. You can even add to the centre of your eyelids for a 3D effect.
Forehead: You can add a little highlight on the centre of the forehead so it looks less flat. It also helps to make the face look slimmer.
Using a fluffy brush, blend out your contoured & highlighted areas in circular buffing motions. Afterwards, set with a little translucent powder and you're set to go.
So now you can see the difference between the before and after. The model looks much more defined and sophisticated afterwards. To tell you the truth, I think she looks better before. I think it's why I don't contour my face that often. I like the youthful look for everyday. What do you guys think? I hope this was helpful.
Thank you so much for reading this!
Much love, Bubz xx
Note: I scanned some images from my 'Lessons in Lipgloss & Happiness" book as references for you guys. I actually drew examples but they didn't look as great as I hoped. I love Thalisa ^_^.